The recent G20 summit has brought the spotlight back to an ancient Indian art form, courtesy of a thoughtful gift by the Indian Prime Minister to his Italian counterpart. The gift in question was a ‘Patan Patola’ scarf, an exemplification of a unique and time-honored craft that finds its roots in Patan, North Gujarat. This age-old technique of producing high-quality double ikat woven fabric has been a significant aspect of Indian culture for centuries.
Understanding the Craft of Patan Patola
Derived from a complex technique known as ikat, Patola weaving involves tie-dyeing the warp or weft before the fabric is woven. This procedure results in a double ikat woven textile, generally crafted from silk. The process is known for being labour-intensive and extremely time-consuming, necessitating remarkable skill and expertise with months required to prepare a tie-died design on warp and weft threads for a single six-yard saree.
Patola has a distinct attribute that sets it apart from other textiles – the fabric’s colour intensity and design are symmetrical on both sides. The weaving of Patola takes place on primitive hand-operated harness looms, made out of rosewood and bamboo strips, placed on a slant.
The Heritage and Prestige of Patan Patola
The Patan Patola holds a heritage that dates back to the 11th century. Its origins can be traced to an intricate method of dyeing or knot dyeing, recognized as ‘bandhani’. This particular quality, woven in pure silk, is a symbol of prestige, and owning or wearing a Patola is considered a matter of pride.
Nevertheless, due to the level of craftsmanship involved and the hefty price tag associated with it, this exceptional fabric remains mostly inaccessible to the general populace. One of the main champions of this revered art form is the Salvi family from Patan.
Variations and International Influence
Though the Patan Patola is the most widely recognized, there exists another popular variant – the Rajkot Patola. This type of Patola is woven on a flat loom, diverging slightly from its Patan counterpart in terms of craftsmanship.
Internationally, Patan Patola has found favour far from India’s borders. Predominantly before World War II, Indonesia was one of the primary purchasers of Patola fabrics. This goes to show the far-reaching influence and appeal that this elaborate textile form holds.
Geographical Indication Tag for Patan Patola
In 2013, Patan Patola secured a Geographical Indication (GI) tag. A GI tag distinguishes a product for possessing certain qualities, method of production, or reputation that can be attributable to its geographical origin, thereby ensuring that only authorized users who have the specific geographical origin are permitted to use the renowned product name.
The Patan Patola stands as a hallmark of India’s rich cultural heritage and artistic prowess. In spite of its relative obscurity and high cost, the appreciation for this intricate fabric continues to persist, making it a cherished tradition that resonates with historical significance and prestige.