Pashmina is a Geographical Indication (GI) certified wool originating from the Kashmir region of India. The term ‘Pashmina’ has been derived from a Persian word “Pashm,” which translates to a weavable fiber, specifically wool. Historically, Pashmina shawls provided warmth during winters for residents of Kashmir. The fine quality of the wool and the extensive labor involved in creating one piece make these shawls quite expensive. A single Pashmina Shawl requires approximately 72 hours or more to weave, depending on the complexity of the work.
Origin & Processing of Pashmina
The raw wool used for Pashmina is harvested from Changthangi goats (Capra Hircus), native to Ladakh. It is collected by the semi-nomadic Changpa tribes who inhabit Changthang, an area straddling across Ladakh and Tibet Autonomous Region, and other regions of Ladakh. The Indian government recognizes the Changpa as a Scheduled Tribe under its affirmative action program since 2001.
The raw pashm is bought from middle men, the critical link between the Changpa tribe and Kashmiri weavers. From this point, the pashm undergoes cleaning and combing before being sorted according to its fineness. It then gets hand-spun and set up into warps on the handloom where it’s woven into luxurious pashmina shawls – a craft passed down generations within the weaver families of Kashmir.
Significance of Pashmina
With its reputation as one of the world’s finest wool types, the Pashmina has captured global attention making it a highly demanded product. This demand has substantially boosted the local economy. However, its restricted availability and high cost led to adulteration issues with manufacturers blending Pashmina with cheaper sheep wool or ultra-fine merino wool. In response, the Bureau of Indian Standards (BIS) in 2019 rolled out an Indian Standard for identification, marking, and labelling of Pashmina products to certify their purity.
GI Certifying Criteria for Pashmina
To be considered genuine, a shawl should meet certain preset criteria – it should be made from 100% pure Pashm, have fiber fineness up to 16 Microns, be handwoven by local Kashmiri artisans, and spun only by hand.
About Shahtoosh
Shahtoosh is the fine undercoat fibre obtained from the Tibetan Antelope, also known as ‘Chiru,’ primarily found in the northern regions of the Changthang Plateau in Tibet. According to the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) Red list, Chiru has been classified as ‘Near Threatened.’
The softness and warming properties of Shahtoosh fibre made it highly valuable, pushing it into the luxury segment. Regrettably, this led to rampant commercial poaching, causing a significant decline in the antelope population. As a result, the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna & Flora (CITES) included the Tibetan Antelope in 1979, leading to prohibition in the sale and trade of Shahtoosh shawls and scarves.
News Controversy Surrounding Pashmina
Recently, Custom officials found ‘Shahtoosh’ guard hair in Pashmina shawl export consignments, which is illegal due to the endangered status of the Tibetan antelopes. This discovery raised concerns over the preservation of the species and the ethical manufacturing practices within the Pashmina industry.
Understanding the Changpa Community
To clear misconceptions about the Changpa community, they primarily inhabit Changthang, extending across Ladakh and Tibet Autonomous Region, not Uttarakhand. They rear Changthangi goats, one of the few sources of authentic Pashmina wool. Classified as Scheduled Tribe since 2001, they play a significant role in the production of Pashmina shawls. Hence, statements 2 and 3 are correct regarding the Changpa community.
