The Directorate of Handicrafts and Handloom in Kashmir has recently announced Minimum Support Price (MSP) for Geographical Indication (GI)-certified handmade Pashmina shawls. This move aims to support and maintain the old production techniques that contribute to the unique qualities of these shawls. Prior to this, the Kashmir saffron had received the GI tag status.
Understanding Kashmiri Shawl Production: Techniques and Types
Kashmiri shawls are produced using two primary methods; loom woven, known as kani shawls, and the needle embroidered, referred to as sozni shawls. Despite the difference in production techniques, both types rely on three basic fabrics: Shah Tush, Pashmina, and Raffal.
Shah Tush, translating as ‘King of wool’, is so fine it can pass through a ring, earning it the nickname Ring shawl. The source of this material is a rare Tibetan antelope which thrives at elevations surpassing 14,000 ft amidst the wild Himalayas.
Pashmina refers to a type of wool recognized across the globe as Cashmere wool. It is produced by a special breed of goat (Capra hircus) living between altitudes of 12,000 to 14,000 ft.
Lastly, Raffal is created from merino wool tops and is another popular type of shawl material due to its desirable characteristics.
What is Geographical Indication (GI) Certification?
Geographical Indication, or GI, is a form of recognition used to differentiate goods that possess unique characteristics, which can be attributed to their geographical origin. This certification is applicable to a range of products, including agricultural items, naturally occurring substances, and manufactured goods.
The Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act from 1999 was established in India to ensure the registration and enhanced protection of goods with a geographical indication. This act also aligns with the World Trade Organisation’s Trade-Related Aspects of Intellectual Property Rights (TRIPS).
Who Administers GI Certification?
The Controller General of Patents, Designs, and TradeMarks, who also serves as the Registrar of Geographical Indications, oversees the process. The Geographical Indications Registry, where the administration of this certification takes place, is situated in Chennai.
Validity and Renewal of GI Registration
Upon its issuance, a geographical indication certification remains valid for a decade. This registration can be further extended indefinitely, with renewals taking place every ten years.
While the certification process plays an important role in preserving the uniqueness of goods tied to their geographical origins, it also contributes to maintaining traditional production techniques. This is evident in the case of Kashmiri shawls, where old methods continue to thrive, supported by initiatives such as the one by the Directorate of Handicrafts and Handloom in introducing the MSP for GI-certified handmade Pashmina shawls.
